Turning Devastation into Peace and Hope

Nagasaki

Thursday, December 22, 2011

WOW! I’m on the train, leaving Nagasaki and am truly impressed.  Nagasaki is the “little Hiroshima” that was bombed by the US on August 9, 1945 at 11:02 am.  Nagasaki was actually the secondary target but it was such a cloudy day that troopers could not spot the primary target, and aimed for Nagasaki instead.  As is the major tragedy of most attacks, over 70% of those killed were women, children, and senior citizens.  The site of the explosion was right near a primary school and several public buildings.  

My first stop of the day was to Peace Park where they have landmarks detailing the explosion site, destruction, and reconstruction. There are also several monuments and a Peace statue around the site, encouraging the world to adapt world peace and stop nuclear weaponry.  I could not have picked a more perfect day to visit the site.  I was literally the only person in the park for most of my visit.  This isolation, combined with the grey, cloudy day made for an eerily somber day, perfect for the reflection and respect deserving to the spot. 

Clock stopped at 11:02 am, time of bombing

There is also a museum inside the park that I debated whether or not to pay for and visit.  I decided to go ahead and do not regret that decision.  The museum had photos, videos, and relics from the day.  One of the most powerful sites was a few clocks that had been salvaged from the wreckage--All of which stopped working (and hands were permanently stopped) at exactly 11:02am, the time of the explosion.   Another powerful site were the sides of buildings and stones who had permanent imprints of the people and things next to them that looked like shadows, caused by the heat of the flash. 

Burnt rosaries

"Shadows" imprinted on a wall from the heat flash of the bomb

As I walked around the sites and museum, I couldn’t help but be moved and feel completely overwhelmed with sadness and desperation.  Both that we live in such a world that could cause such suffering to humanity, and that it was my country that had caused such devastation.  It was yet another instance where I was glad there was no one around to communicate with so that it allowed me the time to fully digest all that was around me. 

Just when I thought I couldn’t take the sadness much longer, I entered the section of the museum dedicated to survivors and hope.   There were entire wings of the museum and monuments around the entire city dedicated to bringing peace and hope to the future.  It was a very inspiring site, much of which was started by a fantastic man, Dr. Takashi Nagai. I am embarrassed to say that I had never heard of him.  I imagine you haven’t either, and I encourage you to read his story.  It’s pretty inspiring.  Long story short, his wife was killed in the attack and he dedicated the rest of his life to peace-making efforts.  Check him out.  Oh, and the Asian fascination with “peace signs” in photos finally makes sense now!

After seeing all the sites related to the bomb, I decided to head to see Japan’s oldest bridge and a few temples.  As I made my way to the trolley tram station, a little old man asked me “if I needed help.” I told him where I wanted to go and he kindly joined me on the trolley and became my little tour guide for the remainder of my visit.  It turned out that he was from Nagasaki and was here during the attack.  He was 6 years old at the time and saw the explosion from his house.  His family survived except his brother died 4 years later, due to complications from radiation (as was the case for many).  I could not have asked for a better guide.  He was happy to practice his English and I was honored to be in the presence of such a walking part of history!

We parted ways and I made my way back to the station.  I had a few minutes before my train so I bought some souvenirs, snacks, and treats for Jyumpei’s dinner party this evening.  I also witnessed a live Christmas pageant play put on by some adorable local children. 

With the somberness of the day, I had been worried that I would leave feeling down for the party tonight.   I’m happy to report, however, that Instead, I left Nagasaki with admiration for how it has built itself back up and turned the situation into a positive one- - to promote peace and awareness, and I left feeling hopeful and energized for the future. 

I arrived back at the hostel around 5:30pm, had about an hour to get ready and then Kei picked me up to head to the dinner party.  I rented a bike from the hostel ($4) and we set off to Hakata station.  Riding a bike on the sidewalks of Japan was an experience! I think I narrowly missed killing about 245 people, and that was on the way there, stone sober.  You can only imagine how fun it was on the way home, after “a few” glasses of wine and sangria! 

The bus terminal has a parking garage just for bikes and it’s just like for cars- - you take a ticket, first 2 hours are free, rack your bike, then pay upon exiting.  To go up and down the stairs, they have a little mini flat escalator for your bike.  I learned the hard way that you are supposed to BRAKE the bike while going down so you don’t BREAK the bike!

We made it safely to the dinner party which was in Jyumpei’s friend’s restaurant.  The place was SO cool! It’s basically a penthouse suite on the top floor of a building and it’s only open to private parties so we were the only folks there! Jyumpei cooked AMAZING Japanese traditional hot pot meals and a delicious Italian fish.  He was very sweet and made sure to make an entire vegetarian pot and fondue cheese for me.  I learned that one of the ingredients in the stew is collagen.  Yup, straight up collagen---this explains why the Japanese have the most beautiful skin in the world!  As expected, the meal was delicious, his friends were super nice, and the evening was perfect!  Oh, and besides providing comic relief to all his friends who enjoyed making fun of my Korean backpack and Japanese cartoon socks, I was an extra hit because of my dessert.  

Jyumpei's Christmas dinner

As I was leaving Nagasaki, I bought a dessert to bring for dinner.  I had no idea what I was buying, just looked around and picked a cake that looked good.  Turns out I had unknowingly purchased a traditional Nagasaki delicacy so everyone was super excited to have it…go me!  J

Kei and I rode the bus back to the terminal.  Even though she was catching a night bus out of town for the weekend holiday (it’s the emperor’s birthday), she rode her bike back with me to hostel. Only, when we were close, her friend called to say her bus had already arrived! We said a quick goodbye and she pedaled off to catch the bus.  I hope she made it back in time!  I was lucky enough to catch the hostel staff as they were walking out the door so they could show me how to lock up the bike since I hadn’t a clue. 

The next day, (today) I DRAGGED myself out of bed.  I was BEAT from a week of very little sleep so I passed out quickly. And of course, per tradition, I got about 3 hours of sleep between the snoring, hostel noise, and my roommates alarm going off 98798782734 times on Snooze.  I had a slow start at breakfast and just as I was making my way into the room, Jyumpei arrived.  CRAP! I had 10 minutes to get dressed, pack, check out, and be on our way! He was patient and I made it in about 12 minutes.  I was smart and decided not to look in the mirror before I left.  I’m still not sure what I’m wearing today, kind of don’t want to know.

All suited up for pottery making!

We headed off for something I have wanted to do MY ENTIRE LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   We went to make pottery!!!!!! I was SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO excited!  It was SO much fun and I WILL be doing this again in the future!  We had a private teacher show us how to make things.  My first two attempts did not end so well, but the third worked! I made a rice bowl and Jyumpei wrote my name in Japanese on it.  He made a Sake glass.  It will take about 2 weeks to dry, bake, and paint and then he will be mailing it home for me….I can’t wait!!!!!! 

After our ceramics outing, we went to eat Unagi (eel) since I had yet to try it and I was leaving Japan in a few hours.  On the way, we passed an Apple store so I stopped in to ask about my ipod.  Of course, it was working fine today so I looked like a moron.  Good thing I’m quite used to that by now.  We made it to our food spot and had our lunch.  I LOVE Ungai!!!! It also came with a bowl of soup that has the eel heart in it.  I ate it and it wasn’t half bad. 

Trying out my unagi!

Unfortunately, after lunch, I had to rush off to catch my ferry back to Korea.  Jyumpei (and a terminal worker—turns out they walk even Japanese people to their destination when you ask directions) walked me to the bus stop and saw me off.  I was really sad to be leaving Japan after such a short visit.  I cannot thank Jyumpei enough for his hospitality and unbelievable generosity. He literally took care of every need I could have possibly had---bought me tea when my throat hurt from the heater, treated me to everything he could think of, introduced me to wonderful people and Japanese food and traditions, lent me a cell phone, and made sure someone always met me at the hostel and/or walked me back.  My time in Japan would not have been nearly as fabulous without you, Jyumpei,  and I am forever grateful.  I hope I can return the favor one day, to you and fellow travelers.  Until then, if you meet a backpacker, especially a Japanese, please help pay it forward! Thanks! Jumpei, I will see you soon my friend, and be on the lookout for a non-pink hat in the mail and a MARVELOUS CouchSurfing Review!!!!! : ) DOMO ARIGATO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!