Thursday, December 22, 2011
Today is my fourth day in Japan and I am So impressed so far and regret not having more time to stay in this wonderfully welcoming country. I arrived Monday afternoon around 1:00pm after a nice 3 hour ferry ride from Busan, Korea. The ferry was quite comfortable and enjoyable and getting to town from the port was an easy bus ride away. As I do in any new country/city, the first thing I did was visit the information center and then exchange money. They explained where to go on the bus, and also how to pay. In Japan, the bus fare is based on the distance of your journey. You take a ticket upon entering the bus, and when you reach your destination, you check the screen to see how much your fare is and turn in your ticket with fare. It’s quite easy and helpful.
My hostel check-in wasn’t until 4pm and the bus station was en route so I decided to stop there and pick up my train pass for the week (I had to exchange the voucher from Korea for the actual pass). Turns out, there was some miscommunication between Korea and myself and I had paid for a 5 day pass when I would only need a 3 day pass. The difference in price was 2000 Yen ($26)—that’s a lot of money for a backpacker! Luckily, the woman at the counter could not have been more helpful and patient. Long story short, I was there for almost 2 hours but in the end, got my 3 day pass and was refunded the difference, minus 10%, and I was able to plan out my train routes for the week. It was a nice introduction to the Japanese helpfulness that I have encountered everywhere since.
The walk to the hostel was easy (even for me, my 85 pound pack, and my lack of direction) and it was nice to take in the sights of Fukuoka a bit. Tabicolle Backpackers is a converted house owned by a young guy, Shuzi. It’s only big enough for 7 guests at a time which I love since it feels like you are in a house and not a giant, impersonal hostel. Every detail of the place was thought out and it is a FABULOUS place! You even get to sleep on traditional futon mats on the floor that fold up during the day. Shuzi and the staff are SO friendly and helpful, speak great English, the place is clean and nicely decorated, and they even provide free wifi, breakfast, coffee and tea, and bathroom toiletries—these are all luxuries when traveling!
I was pretty tired but received a nice “pick-me-up” surprise at arrival. Turns out, Jyumpei, the couchsurfer who was unable to host me had dropped off a bottle of wine for me and left a message that he would be coming by later that night. What a way to welcome me to Japan! Thanks, Jyumpei!
Shuzi, the owner, and his fiance
By the time I checked in, I had been traveling all day and was beyond antsy to just move around. Shuzi told me how to find a nearby park so I set off for a quick run before dark. I made it to the park and enjoyed a quick workout and watching the locals run, walk, play soccer, and baseball. I always prefer watching people interact in their day to day, “real” lives which is why I prefer going to a park, library, or coffee shop and just “hanging out” over going to a museum, cathedral, etc. when I travel. I learn a lot more about a country this way and find it much more enjoyable.
Darkness had set in by the time I set off back to the hostel. I got slightly turned around but stopped at a store and the guy walked me back. It may have just been easier to walk me than trying to explain since he didn’t speak English, but I liked the “star-treatment.”
Afterwards, I was able to unpack, go to an ATM, grocery shop, and relax a little bit in the living room with Shuzi and his fiancé who were busy planning their upcoming wedding. Come 10pm (they are very punctual here), Jyumpei showed up and his friend, Kei, arrived shortly thereafter. I was really glad I bought a chocolate cake at the grocery store for tonight since everyone showed up with treats. It appears to be customary to not arrive empty-handed here. Turns out Shuzi is friends with Kei too (small world!) so the 4 of us hung out until close to 1am, drinking wine and eating traditional Japanese desserts…it was certainly the best welcoming party I had ever had in a country where I knew no one! The evening ended with my social calendar full of invites for the week, my belly full, and my hear happy to be in such a lovely country.
Besides the amazing hospitality, other first impressions of Japan include:
-It’s really safe! It’s safe to walk at night (people are out at all hours) or alone during the day. It’s a nice feeling.
-Bikes have internal locks on the wheels so they lock anywhere, standing up.
-It’s really clean, orderly and organized. I still haven’t figured out the trick, but I seem to always be walking in the wrong direction. Every time I go to or from the train station, I swear I am the ONLY person walking IN when everyone else is walking OUT and vice versa. I’m not talking through a certain doorway, but on the entire street. There must be some secret door and memo that all the Japanese get and I don’t. Either way, they are kind enough to overlook my foreign awkwardness that messes up their nicely organized paths and step aside or bike around me without dirty glances.
-They are SO helpful and smile easily and frequently. Just like Korea, they are patient with language barriers and understand that a smile and laughter go a long way in helping out ANY situation! They are eager to practice their English and proud to share their country with me (rightfully so)!
-Fewer people speak English than I had anticipated, although I’ve encountered more Japanese that speak English than in Korea.
-They have designated smoking areas, even outside
-They drive on the wrong side of the road—didn’t expect that one! Although, to be completely honest, I’ve been to so many countries now that I couldn’t remember which was the “right” side to drive on and had to clarify (thanks for not judging)! : )
- The train system is AWESOME!!! Trains are super-fast, punctual, clean, and come with a regular frequency. Everything about them, is convenient. Stations are in the center of town, tickets can be purchased a minute beforehand and switched at any time. I don’t ever have to worry about a time schedule since I know there are plenty of trains and I can switch my itinerary at any time! They have nice bathrooms, comfy seats, plugs for computers, and I’ve had 2 seats to myself every time. The only complaint is that they go SO fast, my ears hurt! : (
-People love to wear black! I stand out quite loudly with my orange coat, blue shoes, and Korean pants!
-It’s warmer than I anticipated. Okay, let me clarify. It’s still winter cold, but warmer than Korea and I had been warned otherwise.
-I LOVE the bowing system. People bow for anything, and it’s SO cute and polite and makes me reminisce of simpler times when people were much more respectful. On the trains, the staff turn around and face you to bow EVERY time they exit the train car as a sign of thanks—I LOVE it!
I’ll sign off now with an official, turn-around-facing-you, bow to Japan as a big thank you for welcoming with such open arms. THANKS, Japan!
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