Wednesday—the plan was to wake early and go for a run but since I was up late and then didn’t sleep well, thanks to another snorer, that didn’t happen. After a slow start and awaking to discover my ipod not working, I spent the good part of the morning on the phone with Apple and trying to fix the darn thing. By the time I was done with that and made it to the town of Beppu, it was 12:30. So much for an early start!
Oh well. Beppu is an area famous for its hot springs. There are several around town, known as “The Hells.” These are just for viewing and not for soaking. Having read that they are quite thematic and touristy (plus I was short on time), I decided against seeing any of these. I may have been disappointed had I not just seen amazing springs in NZ as well. I had hoped to see the wild monkey mountain park but time didn’t allow for that either.
Instead, I set off to try a local SAND bath! Not a water one, a sand one! There are LOTS of hot springs (onsens) to choose from. The lady at the info. desk pulled out a book of different spots for me to choose from. Most people do like a “pub crawl” equivalent of the different hot springs. I’m poorer than most people so I had to pick the best one. My criteria for the spring was traditional, cheap, close, and authentic. Most of the ones in the binder were inside big hotels, quite touristy, and a bus fare away. I knew I was in good hands when she pulled out a DIFFERNT binder (I can only presume it’s the “local, secret” binder and showed me one where it was OUTSIDE, ON the beach, and I could go for free with my train pass—I was sold!
I rode the metro to the spot and headed off to find the spa. Stopped to ask for directions, was herded by a lady to follow her. I, presuming she was taking me to someone who spoke English, blinded proceeded. I was handed off to another guy who shuffled me down a hallway to a classroom where another man was waiting. They all seemed to think I belonged there. They finally stopped to look at what I was actually asking for and then all laughed and shuffled me outside to the right spot. I never did figure out what that place was or who they thought I was, but it was a fun little encounter!
It was different than anything I had ever done. I was the only person there except for a small Chinese tour group. No one spoke English so I had to guess as to what I was supposed to do. You can imagine my gesturing for asking if I was supposed to take off my underwear or leave that on under the robe. I made instant friends.
Basically, you strip down, put on a robe, walk outside where little women are shoveling shallow pits in the hot sand (warmed from the hot springs). You lay in the sand with the robe ON (I narrowly missed a REALLY embarrassing moment there), head rested on a wooden block, and they slowly burry you in the hot sand. I’m not gonna lie, it was slightly claustrophobic feeling and I had a few instant itches that I couldn’t get to, but for the most part it was relaxing. It was really nice to look out and see the ocean right in front of me, feel the cool wind on my face, and most of all, see the clock on the wall so I knew when I would be able to scratch my itches.
After baking in the sand, I went inside and had a nice charades session to figure out what I was supposed to
do next. I think I got it right. Either way, you’re hearing what I did. Rinsed off in the shower, took a dip in the indoor hot spring tub, then “showered” by the faucets. One of the workers had given me a towel and when I tried to leave and was being charged for a towel, I realized that there was a miscommunication. I had actually brought my own towel, but since I was handed one, thought I’d use theirs. Turns out, they were to purchase. But, they realized the situation and didn’t charge me. : )
I rushed back to the train and made it back to the hostel around 6pm…RIGHT when Jyumpei called to say he was on his way over. Perfect timing! We walked to the mall and tried free samples of everything…even wines! I also sampled different Japanese foods, including a Fukuoka caviar specialty, pizza, tofu, unagi, and different pastries. And this was BEFORE our dinner party!
Jyumpei bought some sake and wine and then we grabbed the desserts I bought and set off for Kei’s house. At the party, I met her friend Muneo and we had an AMAZING and HUGE feast with all traditional foods. They could not have been more kind, making sure I got to experience traditional Japan! I had a WONDERFUL time sitting on the floor, eating all the delicious foods, skyping my folks, and learning about Japan from my new friends. It was a GREAT night and Jyumpei is a GREAT friend, always making sure I’m taken care of—pulling me to safety from Japanese bikers, planning my week full of fun things, walking me to and from places, and lending me a cell phone in case I should need it. DOMO ARIGATO!!
Arrived back around 11:30pm and spent the next few hours posting pictures, researching my day trip the next day, and trying to fix my damn ipod (including installing an APP to learn some more Japanese!)
I love you Dani!
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